I wanted a winter getaway, and with a soft spot for Scandinavian countries, Stockholm felt like the perfect choice. I’d heard it was a compact city, but one that still offered easy access to nature. Even in winter, there’s no shortage of things to do – ice skating, snowshoeing, and cold-weather adventures woven right into city life.
The weather, however, had other ideas. It wasn’t quite cold enough for the frozen-water activities we’d imagined, so the ice skating never materialised. But Stockholm doesn’t rely on deep winter to be special. There are plenty of things to do if you don’t mind wrapping up warm and heading out into the cold.
And travelling to Stockholm in February meant one thing: Swedish semlor. So a long weekend was booked, with a loose plan of bakery hopping, cold-water adventures, and wandering cobbled streets.
We stayed at Hotel Skeppsholmen, set on a quiet island but still within walking distance of the city. It struck the perfect balance – close enough to everything, yet peaceful and calm. After long, chilly days exploring, it felt like returning to a little sanctuary.
Day 1
After fuelling up on breakfast, we headed into the city. It didn’t take long before we found our first coffee stop – and our first glimpse of a Swedish semla. Soft, cardamom-scented bun, almond paste, and a generous cloud of cream. It was every bit as good as we’d hoped.
From there, we wandered through Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town. The narrow cobbled streets, crooked buildings and warm lights glowing from café windows made it feel almost storybook-like, especially in the winter light.
Next, we headed to the Vasa Museum. I wasn’t sure what to expect – I’m not the best with museums and have an attention span of goldfish at times, but this was truly fascinating. The scale of the Vasa ship is hard to describe until you’re standing in front of it. The amount of work that’s gone into preserving it is mind-blowing, and the whole story behind the ship makes the experience even more fascinating.
Afterwards, we strolled along the waterfront and stumbled across the Vrak – Museum of Wrecks. It turned out to be a great, interactive experience, telling the stories of shipwrecks across Sweden and Scandinavia in a really engaging way.
That evening, we headed to Meatballs for the People. It felt like a bit of a right of passage in Stockholm, and I couldn’t resist trying a selection of the different meats on offer. A very fitting end to our first day in the city.
Day 2
We’d booked a kayaking experience with Skärgårdens Kanotcenter, so after working out the local transport, we hopped on a bus and headed out of the city. The plan was simple: a three-hour winter kayaking, Swedish fika and hot sauna experience. And that’s exactly what it delivered.
The staff were brilliant, making sure everyone had the right gear and felt confident in their kayaks before we pushed off into the archipelago. It didn’t take long before we were paddling quietly between small islands, peeking at wooden cabins and watching for wildlife along the shoreline.
Partway through, we rafted the kayaks together for a floating fika. Hot drinks and snacks were passed around while we bobbed gently on the water, surrounded by the stillness of the winter landscape. It was one of those simple moments that felt very Scandinavian – cold air, warm hands from a hot drink, and nowhere else you needed to be.
We continued on a circular route, paddling through patches of icy water, knowing a wood-fired sauna was waiting at the end. And it was exactly what we needed. After warming up inside, we took turns dipping into the icy water outside to cool off – shocking, exhilarating, and strangely addictive.
Still buzzing from the cold-water high, we caught the bus back into town and didn’t even bother going back to the hotel. Instead, we headed straight for food after working up a serious appetite.
We ended up at Bird, a brilliant little chicken spot with long, shared tables and a cosy, local feel. It was relaxed, warm and exactly the kind of place you want to land after a day out in the cold.
Day 3
For our final day, we explored more of the city by hopping on the local ferries. I’d highly recommend this – not just as a way to get around, but as an experience in itself. Stockholm is so closely tied to the water, and seeing it from the ferry gives you a completely different perspective of the city and its islands.
We didn’t have much of a plan. Instead, we just wandered – walking through different neighbourhoods, admiring the architecture, and letting the day unfold at its own pace. It felt like the perfect way to end the trip, without a packed itinerary or a list to tick off.
That evening, we managed to grab a last-minute reservation at Pat’s Place, a brilliant Thai tapas restaurant. It was one of those lucky finds that ends up being a highlight – small plates, bold flavours, and a cosy, intimate atmosphere.
Final Thoughts
Stockholm is a gorgeous place. I can’t speak for the summer months, but if you don’t mind the cold, it’s incredibly beautiful in winter. There’s a real balance between adventure and cosiness – one moment you’re out on icy water or wandering quiet streets, the next you’re warming up in a candlelit café with something sweet and a hot drink.
The city feels compact and easy to explore, and the constant connection to the water gives it a calm, open feel. Whether we were in a café or sitting down for dinner, people were warm and friendly. We found ourselves chatting to locals and fellow travellers everywhere, which always makes a place feel more memorable and alive.
Stockholm in winter turned out to be exactly what we needed: a mix of fresh air, good food, slow moments and a few cold-water thrills along the way.
Ness' bit of everything 