Ness' bit of everything

Introduction

There’s something about Norway that keeps drawing me in – the drama of its landscapes, the calm of its fjords, the sheer scale of it all. This July, I joined a Sidetracked Adventures to the Sunnmøre Alps for a week of hiking and kayaking, swapping emails and commutes for cold water, mountain air, and long, glowing evenings.

I’d been craving a trip that felt both grounding and freeing – a reminder of what my body and mind could do. I expected the beauty (Norway never disappoints), but what I didn’t expect was the heat. The fjords shimmered like mirrors beneath a relentless sun, and each day brought its own balance of effort and reward – sweat, laughter, cool swims, and the quiet moments.

This is my travel diary – a week of early starts, sweaty mountain summits, wild dips all with a great bunch of lasses.

Day by day breakdown

Day 0
The adventure began early: a 4.30am alarm for a 9.30am flight out of London Gatwick to Oslo. A swift transfer later, and I was on a connecting flight bound for Ålesund.

Arriving in Ålesund felt like stepping into another world. After bustling Gatwick, the contrast was a lot – just one small baggage carousel, two toilets, and a calm pace. The airport bus was brilliantly organised, departing in sync with the flight arrivals, and it got me straight into town.

With a few hours to spare before meeting Sophie (our guide) and the rest of the group, I wandered around the town – slightly awkward with two bags in tow – ducking into a few shops and grabbing some lunch. The biggest surprise? The heat. Landing in Norway, I hadn’t expected my first thought to be: “Crikey, it’s hot!”

At 6pm, I met the group for the first time. We piled into the car and set off on the two-hour drive to our cabin near Sæbø, in Urke. The journey itself was an adventure, complete with two ferry crossings. By that point I’d managed to travel by plane, bus, car, and ferry all in one day!

When we finally arrived… the views!! The cabin overlooked dramatic peaks, still snow capped and the glistening water – it was utterly breathtaking. And, to my delight, I had my own room. After previous Sidetracked trips that had been… let’s say a little more feral… this felt like absolute luxury.

Day 1
After breakfast, we headed out for our first adventure: kayaking from Øye on the Norangsfjorden. From 10am to 1pm we paddled about 8km, gliding past soaring cliffs and glassy water. It was the perfect amount of time – by the end, the heat was becoming relentless.
We climbed ashore and tucked into a picnic lunch in the shade of some trees overlooking the fjord. Afterwards, we cooled off with a swim in a nearby swim spot. The water was crisp and refreshing, and a diving platform made it even more fun.

Back at the cabin, we had a quick turnaround before setting off on a gentle walk around the village. The highlight? Ice creams at a small local bar, eaten in the sunshine. By dinner – a hearty veggie chilli – the combination of fresh air and heat had left me drowsy. I noticed everyone retreated to their rooms afterwards, escaping to the cooler spaces. I resisted the urge to scroll on my phone, trying instead to read and journal. Concentration, though, felt difficult in the heat haze.

Diary extract:
“Crikey, it’s hot. Even at 7.30am, it was 20 degrees. The sun barely sets here – just four hours of semi-darkness that feels more like an extended blue hour. I’m glad I brought my eye mask.”

Day 2
It was an early start today – breakfast at 6.30am and out the door by 7.30am. We were heading up Mount Saksa (1,077m), one of the Sunnmøre Alps’ classic peaks. Even by 8am it was already sweltering; it felt more like southern Spain or Greece than Norway.

The hike was tough from the get-go. Norwegian trails don’t believe in gentle warm-ups – they seem to start with a wall of rock and just keep going up. The elevation gain was gnarly, and the heat made it more tricky going. My heart rate spiked quickly too and refused to settle, which made the climb feel tough. I find this when there’s little warm up and I can’t seem to then bring it back down and control my breath as easily. 

After a sweaty 900m of ascent, we finally reached the summit and sat down in the slight breeze with a well-earned lunch. The wind felt heavenly. From the top, we had full 360-degree views of the mountains and fjords – a scene so vast and it made the effort completely worth it.

The descent felt entirely different. My legs felt strong, and I could almost race down, relishing the change of pace. The route was only about 8km in total, but with such steep elevation it was no easy stroll. Despite carrying over three litres of water each, we still ran dry in the last few hundred metres.

At the bottom, we made a beeline for the local shop and then straight to the fjord. Without hesitation, we stripped down to our underwear and plunged into the cold water. It was utterly glorious – the perfect reward for the day’s challenge.

We all sat out on the balcony in the only shade we could find and enjoyed a homemade cheesy broccoli pasta bake. 

Day 3
A more relaxed start today, catching the first ferry over to Saebo at 9.30am. From the town we set off on a circular hike that climbed up to the tree line before looping back down along the valley floor.

The horseflies were relentless – we found ourselves swatting and waving them off as we pushed through the long vegetation on the descent. Along the way we came across several swings – yes, actual swings – hung up in the most scenic spots. Naturally, we stopped at each one for a go.

Back in Saebo, we wandered to the Saga Fjord Hotel and settled on the terrace for a leisurely lunch, soaking in the quiet calm of the afternoon. On the way back to the ferry, we found an ice cream stop, the perfect finish before the return crossing.

The heat has been oppressive these past few days, making everyone a little sluggish. Most people retreated to their rooms to cool down – the coldest part of the cabin. But as I had a room to myself, I still fancied being social. I realised this trip felt quite different from my other Sidetracked Adventures.

I knew it would be – we have a base for the week, whereas on past trips we were constantly on the move, setting up in a new hut or campsite each night. There was a sense of shared purpose then: collecting wood, fetching water, cooking together. Here, at a single (and rather comfortable) base, it’s a different rhythm – quieter, more reflective, less of the communal hustle. Not bad, it was just different.

I found myself missing that teamwork a little – the small tasks that bring everyone together. I hadn’t quite prepared for that shift, even though I knew exactly what I’d signed up for!

Day 4
Diary extract:
“Today, I had an amazing day!”

It was another early start – up at 6am to catch the 8am ferry from Hellesylt to Geiranger, about a 40-minute drive away. As we rolled into Hellesylt, the view stopped us in our tracks: an enormous P&O cruise ship towering over the tiny village. With 6,000 passengers on board, it completely dominated the landscape – and not in a good way.

Geiranger itself was noticeably more touristy than anywhere we’d been so far, but the ferry ride there was calm and beautiful. The fjord is world-famous for a reason – steep green cliffs plunging straight into mirror-like water. Once we arrived, we stopped at a quaint coffee shop before being picked up by a shuttle bus for our kayaking morning trip.

We covered 12km in around two and a half hours, gliding through the UNESCO-listed Geirangerfjord. The water sparkled, the air was still, and even though the fjord was busier than the others, it still felt peaceful in stretches. We passed several waterfalls, including the famous Seven Sisters, and caught sight of remote, long-abandoned mountain farms perched high above the cliffs.

After finishing our paddle, we couldn’t resist the now-familiar ritual – stripping off and jumping straight into the fjord from the jetty. It was cold, shocking, and absolutely glorious. We sat out in the sun afterwards, drying off and enjoying lunch with a view.

Later, we took the shuttle back into Geiranger. The town was hot, crowded, and buzzing with tourists, so we decided to stretch our legs and hike up to the waterfall and visitor centre. Inside, we spent a while exploring the exhibits about the area’s history and Norway’s fjord culture before meandering back into town. We found a terrace overlooking the water for an early dinner, perfectly placed to watch the boats come and go.

As we gathered at the ferry terminal to head back, clouds began to roll in – the first we’d seen all week. We were far too excited about it. The shade, the wind, the drop in temperature – pure bliss! The return ferry was noticeably choppier, and by the time we reached Hellesylt, rain was falling and lightning flickered in the distance. It felt as if the weather had finally broken.

But as we drove back through the valley to our cabin, it was as if nothing had happened – the skies were clear again, our valley still dry and warm.

That evening, sitting out on the terrace, I felt a flicker of nerves about the next day. The forecast was hot again, and the thought of another steep hike made me anxious. My heart rate had spiked on previous climbs, and I wondered how I’d cope with the next one. I didn’t even notice the others slip off to bed as I finished writing in my journal under the lingering twilight.

Day 5
Diary extract:
“Before I start on Day 5, I have to write about last night. We went to bed – or so I thought. Around 10.30pm, I crept to the bathroom and found two of the girls on the balcony, watching a thunderstorm in the distance. I joined them, and we sat giggling quietly so as not to wake the others, counting the flashes of lightning and rumbling thunder. We didn’t think the storm would reach us, so we finally headed to bed. Ten minutes later, torrential rain hit the cabin. Cue a mad dash – several of us running around pulling in all the washing as the storm roared right above us. We stood under the covered balcony, half-awake and wide-eyed, watching lightning illuminate the valley. I finally got to bed around midnight, completely wired.”

Morning came quickly. A 6am wake-up call felt rather cruel after the late-night storm, but we were off for our final big adventure – a circular ridge hike, up Urkeegga. Thankfully, most of the ascent was in shade. It was still warm, but blissfully bearable compared to the previous days.

I’d been nervous, remembering how my heart rate had spiked on earlier climbs, but this time I surprised myself. We took it steady, with regular breaks, and I managed to keep up easily. Sweaty, yes – but it felt good.

As we reached the ridge, the trees fell away behind us and the view opened up. There was a small mountain hut perched at the top, where we stopped for snacks and chatted with two girls who had spent the night there, sheltering through the thunderstorm. The ridge walk was my favourite part of the day – undulating terrain, wide open views, and that lovely sense of flow you get once the hardest part is behind you.

We found shade behind a huge boulder to eat lunch, then followed the path down alongside a river, the descent steady and scenic. I couldn’t believe how much I enjoyed this hike compared to the others – even more than the shorter, lower ones. Maybe it was the cooler air, or the varied terrain. Maybe it was psychological, knowing it was the last day and wanting to savour it. Either way, it was magic.

Naturally, we finished as we had all the days before – with a swim in the fjord. Only this time, there we went to the little fjord side bar shack to grabbed beers, ice creams, and waffles, sitting by the water reliving the highlights of the day.

When a storm cloud rolled in, we headed back to the cabin for showers and our final dinner together. Later, we packed up and sat out on the balcony eating Daim cake, chatting about what we’d loved most about the trip.

We all turned in early that night. It was finally, blessedly, cool – the perfect ending to a wild and wonderful week.

Travel day
Our final morning began early with a 2.5-hour drive back to Ålesund. Everyone had different travel plans, so after catching the ferry we gradually peeled off in different directions. We dropped one of the group off for her bus, exchanged goodbyes, and the rest of us wandered into town for a coffee.

We browsed a few souvenir shops before grabbing fish and chips by the harbour – simple, comforting, and exactly what we all needed.

Eventually, it was time for everyone to go their separate ways. My flight wasn’t until later in the evening, so I treated myself to something I’d spotted earlier in the week – a floating sauna in the harbour (Svai Sauna). It turned out to be the perfect way to end the trip: peaceful, restorative, and a lovely contrast to the energy of the past few days. The weather had cooled, and the heat of the sauna felt wonderful on my tired legs. I only wished the others could have joined, but with all our different flight times, it just wasn’t meant to be. Still, if you ever find yourself in Ålesund, I’d highly recommend it.

Diary extract:
“I’m writing this at the airport – one of the smallest I’ve ever been in – currently delayed by two hours. I’ve been editing photos and quietly accepting that it’ll be a very late night getting back into Gatwick, followed by a two-hour drive home. “

Little did I know that when I finally reached my car, the brakes would be completely stuck on… Cue a call to the AA at 1am. The perfect reminder that adventure doesn’t always end when the trip does.

Reflection
It was a different trip to my usual Sidetracked Adventures trips, but it was only that we were staying in one place. The same attention to detail, planning and vibes were definitely present.

The heat was unexpected, the climbs were hard, and my body ached in all the best ways. But I came back calmer, more grounded, and with that familiar post-adventure feeling – a quiet sense that the world is vast and generous, and that sometimes, all you need to do is show up for it.

Are you planning a trip to Norway in 2026?

Ness x