It’s become a bit of a tradition – my annual trip with Sidetracked Adventures. This year, back in August, I took on a 6-day trek through the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. This was following a section of the Via Alpina route. It was Sophie’s first trip here and I couldn’t resist the chance to explore a new route.
The journey covered 12-18 km each day, starting in Grindelwald and ending in Kandersteg. Along the way, we trekked through stunning landscapes of towering peaks, cascading waterfalls, and the famous Lauterbrunnen Valley, known for its dramatic cliffs.
Day minus 1 – A day and night solo in Bern
I arrived in Switzerland a day early to see the city of Bern before heading to Grindelwald to meet the group. I spent the evening wandering the city, enjoying a quiet dinner, and then witnessing a scene that was both unusual and extremely wholesome. Hundreds of locals were ‘commuting’ down the river by floating down with the flow. It’s a regular part of life apparently: people casually floating downstream, heading to work or home. You can see people walking through the centre with tow floats and drybags heading into work. It was a fascinating sight, and I couldn’t help but marvel at how everyone was embracing nature so much with their lives.
Day 0 – Getting to Grindelwald
The WhatsApp group had already lit up by the time we all woke up. With everyone in Switzerland and making their way to the starting point, there was an undeniable buzz in the air. I was traveling with two other women through Interlaken, and we decided to make the most of the opportunity by exploring the town and taking a refreshing dip in the lake before meeting the rest of the group. I felt that familiar rush of excitement that always comes with meeting fellow adventurers. We were all in high spirits, eager to dive into the journey ahead. Questions were flying, and the conversation was a whirlwind of excitement and curiosity, but the lake was calling, and we quickly found ourselves by the water. After a sweaty morning of lugging luggage around the rail network, a swim in the crisp waters of Lake Brienz felt like pure bliss.
We then caught the train up to Grindelwald to meet up with the others. The train ride was nothing short of breathtaking – the landscape became progressively more dramatic as the train ascended, winding up into the heart of the Alps. Upon arriving, we checked into the hostel, and Sophie gave us the rundown of the route and the trip itinerary. Then, it was time for a hearty meal to fuel up for the adventure ahead.
Day 2 – Grindelwald to Wengen (18.4km)
After a restless night filled with excitement and anticipation, I fuelled up on coffee and, before I knew it, we were packed and ready to hit the trail. The first day of hiking kicked off with an uphill climb towards the base of the Eiger. “Up” was an understatement – it felt like an endless ascent. The sweat was pouring, I won’t lie, and a sense of nervous excitement crept in as I realised just how intense the next few days would be.
We paused for a snack break, hydrating and trying to dry out our t-shirts. The heat combined with the uphill slog made me grateful for the occasional rest stop, but also for the stunning views that kept me going. We continued onward to Kleine Scheidegg, where we enjoyed a picnic lunch fit for queens, surrounded by towering peaks and the bell ringing cows.
The afternoon was more relaxed, with a downhill section into Wengen. However, followed by a mini sprint to make sure we caught the train. We made it to Lauterbrunnen with just minutes to spare. The day had been long and physically demanding, meaning the walk from the station to the hostel seemed to stretch on forever. Finally, we dropped off our bags, then ventured out in search of a some dinner and of course, sniffed out the fresh donuts for pudding!
Day 3 – Lauterbrunnen to Tanzbedeli, Gimmelwald, and a lift to Mürren (14.5km)
The day began with a 5km walk along the dramatic floor of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, crossing the icy-blue glacial melt river. From there, we made our way to the Stechelberg gondola lift, which carried us higher up the mountainside. After a brief drop, we ascended again to Tanzbedeli, or “the dance floor,” a 2133m peak known for its flat top. The route was out-and-back, so we’d return the same way we came. And once more – up we went.
I didn’t take many photos during the ascent; it was one of those “head-down, power through” sections where everyone fell into their own rhythm. After a much-needed lunch break (and another round of wringing out my shirt), we were just below the summit. But the last stretch turned into more of a scramble than a hike. I put away my poles and used my hands to navigate the rocky terrain.
The heat combined with the uphill grind made every step feel heavier. My breath started to shorten, my chest tight. I could feel the panic creeping in as I struggled to get enough air. I had to call out to the group to stop, gasping for breath and battling the anxiety that surged. A few deep, guided box breaths with the girls helped me regain control, and I was able to push through.
It’s a reminder that on multi-day hikes, especially with a group, it’s okay to ask for a pause if things get too overwhelming. Never be afraid to speak up if you need a breather – it’s better to take a moment and reset than to push too hard and risk panic or hyperventilation.
When we finally reached the summit, all the struggle melted away. The adrenaline hit, and we celebrated with a moment of pure joy. There’s nothing quite like the summit feeling, whether you’ve climbed 1,000m or 4,000m. If you feel the struggle on the accent, that summit feeling doesn’t get old. And, of course, there was a lot of dancing.
The descent, however, was another story. My knees! I was incredibly grateful for my poles, which helped absorb some of the impact with each step. After the rocky scramble near the summit, the path turned to loose scree, making the descent even trickier. Each step felt more precarious, but my poles kept me steady.
We descended at a good pace, stopping briefly to cool our feet in the refreshing river. Finally, we made our way to Gimmelwald, where we grabbed an ice-cold beer with a view of the route we had just conquered before we caught the gondola up to Mürren for the night.
Day 4 – Mürren to Rotstockhutte (6km)
Day 4 was a welcome breather, offering a slower pace and time to soak up the charm of the Alps. We started the morning wandering around Mürren, a picturesque mountain village, where we drank coffee and smoothies at local cafés. For lunch, we sprawled out on the village lawn, enjoying a picnic with a breathtaking backdrop of the mountains.
In the afternoon, we set out on a shorter hike to Rotstockhütte, our home for the night. The trail was relatively gentle, winding through lush meadows dotted with wildflowers and grazing cows.
When we arrived at the hut, we settled in and spent the rest of the afternoon sitting out, basking in the views, sharing chocolate, and playing cards. The atmosphere was perfectly serene – a moment to truly appreciate the simplicity of life in the mountains.
Dinner at the hut was an authentic Swiss Alps experience, served family-style. There was no menu, just a hearty one-pot meal placed at each table to share. It was a wonderful opportunity to connect, not only with our group but also with fellow hikers on their own alpine adventures.
The hut itself was everything you’d expect for in an alpine retreat – remote, rustic, and full of character. With incredible hospitality and like-minded guests.
Day 5 – Rotstockhutte to Grisalp (13.4km)
Sleep at the Rotstockhütte was far from restful. The dormitory, located on the upper floor of a barn, housed 25 to 30 people – each with their own unique sleeping habits. The squeaky wooden door and the staggered wake-up times didn’t help matters. Despite this, we were eager to get moving after breakfast, once a storm squall passed through.
The day’s journey began with a climb over the Sefinafurgga Pass at 2,612m. Early on, we were treated to the sight of a group of marmots, their playful antics lifting our spirits. The trail ascended steadily, with the greenery giving way to a scree mountain slope. As we climbed higher, the terrain transformed again into wooden steps that zigzagged up toward the pass.
As we neared the top, the weather reminded us just how unpredictable the Alps can be. The wind picked up sharply, howling through the pass, and clouds rolled in with alarming speed. After days of blue skies, it was a humbling contrast – a reminder of how dynamic and wild these mountains truly are.
The descent from the pass was equally challenging with a 1,478m drop ahead of us. The scree-like terrain, combined with limited visibility due to cloud cover, made the initial stretch feel precarious. I was incredibly thankful for my trekking poles and knee supports, which provided much-needed stability. The view from the top of the pass was intimidating, but as we zigzagged lower, the clouds began to lift, revealing a moonscape-like trail and the stunning vistas we had missed earlier. Looking back, we could see the steep route we had just conquered – a rewarding and slightly surreal sight.
We paused briefly to refuel, hydrate, and adjust our layers, deciding to push on and delay lunch until later. The wind remained, making any extended stop too chilly to enjoy. As we approached Griesalp, rain began to pour, and we took shelter beneath the overhang of a barn before the final push.
Finally, we arrived at a charming Swiss B&B, a welcome sanctuary after the day. Hot chocolates and a late lunch restored our energy, and we enjoyed the luxury of premium shower facilities. The rest of the evening was spent playing cards and eagerly anticipating a hearty dinner enjoying the alpine views.
Day 6 – Oeschinen loop (10.5km)
Our final day began a little differently, with a bus and train ride to Kandersteg. This adjustment was necessary due to the mountain pass being closed. Sophie adapted the plan, organising a loop hike from Kandersteg instead.
The bus ride itself was an adventure – it’s renowned as the steepest in Europe. With its early morning horn beeps, sharp turns, and steep ascent, we were all wide awake by the time we boarded the train. Upon arriving in Kandersteg, we lightened our packs by leaving some of our kit at the hotel where we’d stay that evening. From there, we headed up the Oeschinensee gondola lift, ready to tackle the day’s loop.
Starting the hike in the afternoon felt strange and unexpectedly challenging. I’ve always enjoyed hiking in the morning, and it took a bit more effort to find my rhythm. However, the breathtaking views of Oeschinensee lake soon made up for the slow start. The waters and dramatic alpine scenery seemed to get even better as we progressed along the trail.
We stopped for a well-deserved lunch on the mountainside, where the group split into two. Some opted for a route directly to the lake, eager for a refreshing dip, while others – myself included – chose the longer loop. The trail wound dramatically close to the cliff edge, ascending to a higher pass with rock overhangs adding to the thrill of the hike.
Eventually, we rejoined the rest of the group by the lake. That icy dip was everything I had been dreaming of throughout the hike – refreshing, and utterly rewarding. It was followed by a well-earned ice cream, the perfect way to celebrate.
Dinner that evening was bittersweet, as final meals often are. We shared stories, laughs, and reflections on the highs and lows of the journey. Amid the reminiscing, a sense of pride filled the air – we had all pushed ourselves and accomplished so much.
Takeaways
- Hydration is key. I learned that my body needs more water than I initially thought, especially during strenuous hikes in warm weather. Despite drinking frequently, I was still feeling drained until a lady on the trip introduced me to electrolytes. The difference was incredible – not only did my energy levels improve, but I also slept better.
- Walking poles are essential. Walking poles proved indispensable for multiday hikes and steep ascents or descents. They took a significant load off my knees and provided extra stability, especially on uneven terrain.
- Pack an extra t-shirt. Packing light is always a balance, and while I was proud of my frugality, I should have thrown in one more T-shirt. My white hiking top – despite washing it in the sink – was pretty gross by the end of the week. Adaptability is Crucial. Mountain environments are notorious for unpredictable weather and route changes, and our hike was no exception. Staying flexible when plans shifted due to conditions was really important to staying positive and motivated.
- Team support is everything. Every group adventure reinforces just how important camaraderie and mutual encouragement are. During tougher sections like the climb to Tanzbedeli, the group’s support made all the difference. Knowing when to ask for help and offering it in return is a powerful reminder of the value of teamwork.
- Strengthening my body. I’m grateful for the resilience of my mind and body, which carried me through this trip. However, I noticed I needed to work more on my knee stability for future mountainous hikes.
- Getting out of my comfort zone. This trip reinforced that stepping outside my comfort zone is incredibly rewarding. I learned how tough and resilient I can be. These experiences build confidence that extends far beyond the hike itself, reminding me to seek out more opportunities to push my limits.
Ness' bit of everything 